NEW YORK — New York Fashion Week is officially over, and there was much to see and do.
Big designers like Christian Siriano and Sergio Hudson showed on the calendar, and celebrities from Beyoncé to Rachel Brosnahan and Danai Gurira made for buzzy front rows. With its new hub in Chelsea at the Starrett-Lehigh Building, fashion week still managed to take attendees across the city (and to Bushwick!) on a journey through snow and sartorial selections.
But this was not a season of reinvention or revolution. As designers and brands showed off their fall/winter 2024 collections, they leaned in to what makes clothing beautiful and stuck with doing that well. They didn't try to push bounds with virality or feign originality when everything's already been done. For fall, expect the return of the Big Belt, fur (both faux and real) in all lengths and colors, corsets and gloves of leather, tulle and fuzzy varieties.
Here's a recap of what (and whom) we saw at 22 runway shows, events, showrooms and installations.
While social media bemoans and critiques the influx of the "mob wife aesthetic," L'Agence inadvertently created a collection fit for the organized clothing of organized crime: cropped fur jackets, slinky, floor-length slips, deconstructed black tie and bejeweled pieces.
Always one to kick off the calendar, Christian Siriano drafted lamé, bulbous sleeves and hemlines, and swaths of red for his journey through the desert of the future. Ashlee Simpson, "Succession" star J. Smith-Cameron, Melanie Lynskey, Busy Philipps, Sophia Bush and Siriano show staple Alicia Silverstone, sat front row.
Inside the fashion show at The Plaza:Christian Siriano taps Ashlee Simpson, this 'Succession' star for NYFW show
Jeannie Mai, Awkwafina, Kimora Lee Simmons' model daughter Aoki Lee Simmons and designer Phillip Lim himself (of 3.1 Phillip Lim) rang in the Lunar New Year in style at the Times Square Edition Hotel's Paradise Club, with takes on the highball and sidecar cocktails from Hennessy.
If Zenon, of "Zenon: Girl of the 21st Century," and Michael Imperioli's "Sopranos" character had a child together who wanted to create clothing honoring their parents, this would be it. Custo Barcelona offered shimmering tracksuits, silver, purple and teal foil dresses and tinsel-topped separates (who exactly is wearing this remains to be seen).
The designer showcased his "return to going out and dressing up" at his New York store for the woman with uptown sensibilities — and pockets to afford the luxe pieces. I could absolutely see a particular slinky champagne lamé gown and corresponding cropped fur jacket on the Oscars afterparty circuit.
The designer's "Intersections" installation paired clothing and accessories hanging from the ceiling with multigenerational AAPI artists' work. Alongside celeb attendees Stephanie Hsu, Tyler Cameron, Jeannie Mai and Lauren Chan, I spotted a likely new It Bag, with a large flap and gold hardware.
The Saturday morning show was a stunner, with standout moments including a swan-like gown and a chocolate brown sequin pantsuit. A little robot camera zooming to film the runway signaled a too-near future. And I got my first glimpse of "Gossip Girl" star Kelly Rutherford, who made the rounds at Tommy Hilfiger and Pamella Roland, too.
What's in a name. Providing "discovery" each season, this year's set of small, independent Black designers was a top-tier crop of talent.
Gvds, from Nigerian designer and former mechanical engineer Muktar Onifade, had the coolest and most cohesive creations I saw all week; Nia Thomas and Amari Carter, two self-titled brands, delivered high-quality sensuality to their knitwear; the colorful clothing and twin founders of BruceGlen brought their quintessential vibrance; and the Hermès Kelly bag may want to step aside for Silver and Riley's fabulous Italian leather New Yorker bags.
The girls were gagged when a big yellow school bus arrived outside the Lower East Side venue and models walked out to descend the runway. That's the fun of Lapointe, where bright colors and high-impact textural elements like sequins and fur mixed with collegiate touches.
The clothes were cute — the line to get in was not. The brand has done an excellent job staying true to its roots and showcasing wearable, beautiful looks in a constantly evolving trend cycle and tough fashion market.
National Geographic threw its sartorial hat into the ring while promoting nature docuseries "Queens." The brief but impactful runway saw animal holograms paired with designs from JêBlanc, Sergio Hudson, Bohn Jsell, anOnlyChild, Head of State, Theophilio, Studio 189, Bed on Water, Almasika and L'Enchanteur (though the organization of both catwalk and crowd left something to be desired).
A violinist and Black Swan ballerinas left attendees speechless. The pared-back collection explored the duality between light and dark, with a couple of deep teal gowns. An organizational nightmare, but at least wrapped in a dream and a good DJ at the afterparty. Also spotted: the "Pookie" couple who have taken TikTok for a ride.
Kallmeyer left me fed, double entendré intended. "So chic," said Sophia Bush as she walked in, succinctly summing up the minimalistic collection. AnnaSophia Robb and Whitney Port also showed up to support designer Daniella Kallmeyer.
Inspired by a trip to Belgium and its "enchanting hues" of wine, chocolate brown, bronze and gold, Pamella Roland stayed true to form with intricate gem, appliqué and feather work. And we were treated to a mini "America's Next Top Model" reunion with Eva Marcille, Nigel Barker and Jay Manuel.
See the photos:These 'America's Next Top Model' stars reunited at Pamella Roland's NYFW show
A short showroom visit was a moment of respite in a busy schedule, and a pale buttercream dress with gems down the center and across the waist added to the dreamy Markarian moment. The bridal offerings have not yet left my mind.
A fête indeed, if the party is an '80s business cocktail function where everyone is loaded and decadence reigns supreme. The Retrofête show was vibrant and featured statement colors we'll see more of come fall (bright red, cranberry, navy and pink-purple). It's what I imagine Margot Robbie's characters in "The Wolf of Wall Street" and "Barbie" might reach for on different days.
Music: bumping. Hair: bouncing. Collection: bursting, with color, texture and coats galore. Sergio Hudson knows how to dress a boss woman, many of whom sat front row: Rachel Brosnahan, Janelle James, Karen Pittman, Hoda Kotb and Jenna Bush Hager, Danai Gurira and Sunny Hostin.
The designer reimagined "film noir, expressionist cinema, S&M and surrealism"; stylist and tastemaker June Ambrose and "Real Housewives of New York" newbie Jessel Taank sat front row.
The frilly and feminine brand headed to a nightclub for its collection with a burlesque twist. Bubbly drinks and donuts inside corresponded with a much-need Dunkin' truck with coffee.
MORE, MORE, MORE:Rachel Brosnahan, Danai Gurira, Hoda and Jenna rock front row at Sergio Hudson NYFW show
Beyoncé (and Solange and Ms. Tina Knowles) surprised everyone and the clothes were infinitely cool: What else is there to say? Raul Lopez's Luar is creating lore beyond signature bags: strong shoulders also draped with watches, wrists and waists adorned with jeweled cuffs and the introduction of a forthcoming line of basics.
Queen Bey is in the house:Beyoncé surprises with sparkling appearance at Luar show during NYFW
Happy Valentine's Day, indeed, from Brandon Maxwell, where bars of chocolate served as seat cards. The all-white set felt ethereal and otherworldly — then the first model emerged in a rippling cream gown that seemed to float down the runway, elevating the vibe to a more heavenly level. Pieces caressed the body, looking effortless in the way only a master designer could conjure.
The new brand took visitors to the dollhouse, where a modern take on vintage looks awaited, as pinks and browns coincided with tulle and fur in delicate sets and dresses.